Friday, August 17, 2012

Riga, Latvia: Halftime Reflections on Trip

Well it's about halfway through my trip to Riga, and perhaps time for some reflection. First, I'll say that the trip has been going by pretty fast! It's been almost two weeks since I arrived. The weather has been close to what I expected, although it's very humid in August here. Even with the humidity, the temperature has been a perfect drop from a blazing summer back in the states.

Admittedly my blog has been quiet shallow, and I simply stopped exploring Riga after the first week. I've fallen into a routine and this has kept the topics in the blog shallow. At this time I simply don't feel compelled to visit a club, or the beach, or travel anywhere else outside the city. I'm relatively content just seeing the Old Town, parks, cafes, and restaurants. Additionally, a growing number of negative experiences with locals has unfortunately led to my spending more time at the hotel instead of exploring. So I apologize to any readers who are expecting more.

First I'll talk about the positive experiences I've had in Riga. As I've said many times before, I really enjoy the quiet and beautiful parks in Riga. With some shade it's really comfortable and you can just chill out at one of the many park benches. The city really seems to value these parks and keeps them clean. The plants and flowers are well taken care of as well. The architecture in the city is constantly being repaired and renovated. The city understands that they are a popular tourist destination, and are trying to improve the experience.

Speaking of the architecture, it is beautiful and worth coming to see if you're into that sort of thing. I'm not particularly an architecture buff, but it's hard to cross the bridge heading into Old Town without looking at the buildings in awe.

The food has gone from good to amazing, depending on the cafe or restaurant. I haven't had a bad meal yet in the city. Presentation at restaurants and cafes is always top notch. Customer service is always fast and professional. The prices on food varies greatly depending on the restaurant or cafe. However, I do believe prices are generally inflated due to the presence of tourists. You can find the occasional great deal, but for the most part you'll pay a higher price.

Coffee and tea have been a mixed experience. The independent places are the best, with incredible coffee and espresso. The chains are OK but nothing special. I have found iced coffee is very watered down here.. They do not appear to double brew the coffee or do anything to prevent ice from watering the coffee down. Tea has been very good at most places.

I'm not particularly a beer drinker but I've found that they have a wide variety of beer at decent prices in the city. There are many outdoor terraces and bars to visit. Latvia has a number of local beers here that are quite good.

If you're looking for beautiful women, Riga is a city that would be hard to beat. The women are amazing everywhere you go. I created a challenge for myself: To find a tram or bus without one beautiful woman on it. This has been almost impossible! The population of beautiful women in Riga is very high! They like to dress up and wear high heels, so you won't be disappointed if you're looking for them. As for talking to them, well that's a different story.

The prices on airfare and hotels in Riga are extremely competitive. You simply won't find many places with better deals than Riga in Europe. The backpacker index lists Riga as one of the top affordable cities in Europe.

Now, for the negative experiences I've had in Riga. First and most obvious, the unfriendly people of Riga. Upon arriving to the city, I wanted to talk to everyone and learn about the culture here. I learned very fast that the locals were not fond of small talk, didn't seem to like tourists, and were in general very cold. I've heard many reasons why this is the case.. That the Soviet Occupation muted the population, that Latvians just plain don't like tourists, or that women don't trust western men because of sex tourism. Whatever the case, it has made for a very frustrating trip.

Getting directions or help in Riga is also extremely difficult. The locals like to say, "I don't know" to every question you ask. Getting lost means you have a serious problem. Luckily, Riga isn't so big and I have a decent map!

The beggars, pickpockets, and scammers make a visit to Riga less pleasant. I don't like having to constantly look over my shoulder, but Riga makes me feel like this is necessary. When somebody does talk to you, it seems to always be some kind of scam. The beggars in Old Town are extremely prevalent, and they are quick to identify and harass unsuspecting tourists. It took me a few days to get adjusted.

Traffic in Riga is dangerous, and drivers do not have much regard for pedestrians. You certainly need to be very careful when crossing streets in Riga, because the occasional race car driver wants to fly through the intersection!

Overall, Riga has been a mixed experience for me. I feel that it was worth a visit, but it would be far better with a traveling companion. Being alone here is quite depressing and challenging, because finding good company is almost impossible. It's also more dangerous being alone for obvious reasons. I wish that I had done more research on the culture of Latvia before coming here and finding out that most people are not friendly. As Christine said yesterday, "It's all about the people for me". She's right- all the pretty architecture, parks, and restaurants in the world cannot add up to having somebody to talk to.

5 comments:

  1. Interesting analysis. I've lived in Riga for 8 days the first week of August and I must admit I had to adjust the first two days but afterwards I felt at ease discovering the entire city on my own.As a European a know that, the more to the North you travel the more "colder "people are. But I enjoyed my stay a lot.Indeed Riga is a beautiful city with the most pretty girls I've ever seen

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    1. Yes my friend always tells me "where it's cold, you will find cold people." I didn't listen to her before, but it makes sense now! Thanks for reading.

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  2. I stumbled upon your blog and I read it all in one shot.
    It's two years I live and work in Riga, and reading your posts I experienced again my first days here.
    It's amazing the number of thing you already got right.
    Latvija and Riga have been a brave new world to discover for me, full of contradiction and contrast but also beauty and simpler joy of life.
    To me was almost impossible not to fall in love with this country. And in this cases you have to take it all, the good and the less good.
    Take it for what it is, and enjoy any second of your journey.
    How longer you are going to stay here?

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    1. Wow, that's quite a long read. I hope my ramblings didn't go on too long :) Thanks for the perspective. Eastern Europe has always been special to me, since my first trip to Romania. I will be here for about another week.

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  3. I have a couple of thoughts to offer at this point, but as you can see, it's already 2013, and after the fact. Sorry about that! First is that staying in a youth hostel would improve the chances you'd find someone to hang out with. The hostels are full of travelers who are into talking to other travelers. Whoever is staying there cooks in a communal kitchen, and people often end up sharing food and stories. Even if you don't spend the day with them, in the evening people will exchange tips and advice about fun things to do and other experiences. Second, you should try to learn at least a little about Latvian history and culture on your own, maybe even know some of the language. Go learn something in the museums! That goes a long way when you talk to a citizen of the country you're visiting - that you're trying to learn their language and culture, that you don't just expect people to know English. It communicates that you've made an effort. it doesn't seem like you were that interested in learning more about Latvian history or culture from sources other than the locals. The local people probably were in Riga working or meeting friends after work or conducting business, were too busy to chat with visitors to Latvia. I'm not trying to sound harsh, just realistic. And if you did want to try to strike up a conversation, it's always much more compelling to that person if you can show that you've done some homework - that you know something about that person's country and language. Third, you really need to leave Riga - the big bustling city of Latvia, where everyone is in a rush - and go visit other areas. You will find all sorts of people in the other areas, some of whom don't have the opportunity to talk with foreigners as much as the people of Riga do, and therefore they might be friendlier. You also could have signed on to a tour which would have a tourguide whose job is explaining Latvia and its history to you! Hanging out in the hotel and in the touristy Old Town is not going to give you the best exposure to typical life in Riga, and it's very unlikely that anyone would invite you over to their house to hang out in a typical Latvian household without knowing you a little. A good idea might have been to enroll in a Latvian language course for a few weeks - you'd meet people there that would be happy to go out for coffee or pizza! So my advice to you back then in August would have been - go on some tours! Get out of Riga! Make friends with other travelers! Maybe the next time you venture out of the US (which I really admire you for doing - choosing to go to Latvia without a buddy or knowing anyone there - you'll have a better collection of strategies and have a better time. Good luck!

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